I have only a few photos of my surfing years - film was expensive, and we were having too much fun to bother with cameras. Here are three pics of me back in the day.
Guethary, France, 1965
In the curl, El Capitan, Santa Barbara County, 1966. I loved this fickle spot, and was the only one out on this December afternoon.
Anyway, I digress. The following are pictures of today's first heats, the first of several days of competition.
This is Trestles, one of the best breaks on the west coast and in a relatively natural setting, too. Those orange tent structures are the judging towers, competitor areas, and merchandise stores. They are temporary for the event.
This is what it looks like down by the water.
Mick again. He is called "White Lightning" for his ability to generate speed.
Hiroto Ohhara from Japan.
Mick, from Australia, was recently attacked by a Great White Shark while in the Finals on live broadcast, in South Africa. He was unscathed, atleast physically. His board had a huge bite, however.
These guys can get upside down and fly through the air!
Brazilian fans are rabid!
The influence of skateboarding on surfing.
A real crowd favorite is John John Florence from Hawaii.
And from Santa Cruz, one of my favorites, Nat Young.
Nat signing a "young" admirer's shirt.
Taking to the air again.
On the bike ride back to the van through the Camp Pendleton Marine Base, I watched this VTOL plane practicing a landing. There is a huge military presence around these parts.
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